The workshop of the XVIIIth century costume
In the wish to make the Camp de Vaussieux more alive than ever, the association Un Nouveau Monde inaugurated in 2020 its ‘Atelier du Costume du XVIIIème siècle’.
Seamstresses specializing in 18th century costume sew every Thursday afternoon on a voluntary basis to immerse themselves in the Age of Enlightenment.
Under the guidance of Ginette Ollivier, manager of the workshop, and with the help of patterns and techniques of the time, the realization of the costumes aim to be authentic and not to be simple disguise.
Here are some examples of these fashion costumes from this historical period :
The French dress or dress with baskets was very fashionable in the circles of the aristocracy and the high bourgeoisie of the eighteenth century.
It is characterized by folds Watteau (named after the painter who loved to represent them)
It will be gradually replaced by the English dress and the Polish dress in the 1770s.
The search for comfort and simplicity of the garment will bring the English dress to replace little by little the French dress.
The English dress consisted of a fitted bodice cut in one piece with an open skirt on the front, revealing the underskirt. It was worn without a basket.
The Polish dress consists of a dress with a cut and draped skirt.
At that time, clothes could carry political messages. The three panels that characterize the Polish dress were a metaphor for a protest against the dismemberment of Poland between the Russian, Prussian and Austrian empires in 1772.
The Queen Shirt is a light and simple garment, decorated with a wide belt. It was made famous by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun’s portrait of Queen Marie-Antoinette.
The ‘Pet-en-l’air‘ is the short version of the French dress with its famous Watteau pleats (named after the painter who often painted them). This model is easier to wear because the original dress is a court dress and therefore has a train. It is therefore more economical, because it takes much less fabric to make it.
Why Pet-en-l’air (fart in the air) ? Because the many pleats that elegantly unfold at the level of the pelvis fly away at the slightest breath of air ….
In the 18th century, horseback riding became very popular in the upper echelons of society. Queen Marie-Antoinette in particular loved this sport. The equestrian dress became a new fashion.
A mix between the English dress and the riding costume, the redingote is a feminine coat with a tight waist and a flared skirt.
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Jacket of small size, the pierrot was conceived in opposition to the extent of the Watteau pleats of the French dress.
Une bonne occasion de sortir entre copines et de parader devant les militaires.
But fabric is expensive ! Costumes require time and money. Your help is welcome to finance our workshop.